Progressive 416 Shock Installation Instructions

Carl Kulow

 

 

Shock Removal

 

If you have a Tourer, you do NOT have to remove the hardbags.

Raise the bike slightly off the ground with Cycle Lift or equivalent.

Set both shocks to #1 spring pre-load.

Remove bottom shock bolt using 12mm socket (right shock) or 14mm socket (left shock), swivel, and long extension on your ratchet.

Remove top shock bolt with 14mm socket on your ratchet.

Gently pry the top of the shock off the mount with a screwdriver.

Remove shocks.

 

 

Right Shock Installation

 

Both Progressive 416’s are identical, use either one.

You want to install the shock with air outlet facing forward.

Insert the thinnest black sleeve into the lower (red end) shock eye and press into place with a bench vise. (Pre-test the sleeve on the bolt for proper size before inserting into the shock.)

Line up the lower shock eye with its mount, insert and finger tighten the bolt (12mm). (Tom Mitchell found it necessary to drill out one of the large thin brass washers to get the .020” min. space. I did not do this because there was not enough space on my bike. Check your own bike for the .020” min. space and act accordingly)

The top shock eye does not get a sleeve.

Very carefully raise or lower the Cycle Lift to align the top shock eye with its mount (N.B. swing the shock forward out of the way when lowering the lift, so you do not smash the top of the shock if the lift lowers too quickly!!!)

Insert and finger tighten the top bolt (14mm)

 

 

Left Shock Installation

 

Same as the right shock EXCEPT:

Insert the thickest black sleeve into the lower shock eye. (pre-test on the bolt first).

The left lower shock bolt is 14mm.

The left lower shock bracket may be a tight fit for the shock with its sleeve.

 

 

Torque Values

 

With all 4 shock bolts installed and finger tightened use a torque wrench to set the following values:

 

Both top bolts (14mm) = 20 ft.lbs.

Right lower bolt (12mm) = 17 ft.lbs.

Left lower bolt (14mm) = 25 ft.lbs.

 

Air Line Installation

 

The air fill T valve can be plastic cable tied (zip tie) to the frame in a suitable location or it can be permanently installed on the front plastic battery / seat release lock cover as suggested by Rob Weber. To do so, remove both sidecovers – pull loose at rear grommet first, then bottom grommet, then swing cover forward to unhinge front tab.

Remove the 10mm bolts on each side holding the front cover in place – do not lose the spacer sleeves!

Put masking tape below the seat lock and put a mark 1 ½” directly below the CENTER of the seat lock.

Working on the left side of the bike, swing the front cover toward you slightly and drill a small pilot hole at the mark and then a 5/16” final hole. Do not mount the fill valve yet!

Run the air lines from the shocks to the fill valve.

Connect all air fittings as given in the Progessive instructions – finger tighten only!

Inflate to 50 psi at the fill valve – it only takes a very small amount of air, be careful!

Use soap suds to check all fittings, both shocks and fill valve, for leaks.

Install the fill valve into the front cover using the nuts and washers supplied.

Use plastic zip ties to hold the air lines in place.

Reinstall front cover and side covers.

Adjust (experiment) the air shocks for solo = ~ 10 – 25 psi and two up = ~ 40 – 70 psi.